Room for one more party, yes? Just one more slice of cake and one more glass of wine? New Year’s Eve marks the line between one year and the next, of course, but for many of us it also marks the cut-off point between indulgence and abstinence. What better way to tread this fine line, then, than to have friends over and serve them some snack food rather than one big feast. This sort of food often makes for my favourite kind of get-togethers, anyway: hanging out while eating various nibbles over the course of an evening, rather than the ready, steady, go of a big sit-down number.
One or two or all three of today’s snacks will indulge your guests far more than any little party canape, but at the same time they are all just about abstinent enough not to weigh everyone down, which is the last thing any of us needs right now. That’s why I’ll be treading this very line tomorrow night, to see out the old year and bring in the new.
Panelle
If you’re going to make only one snack to serve with the drinks tomorrow night, these are the perfect make-ahead choice. They are made with chickpea flour and cooked like polenta, and you can prepare and chill the mixture today or tomorrow morning, then cut it into slices so the panelle are ready to cook when your guests get hungry and you get frying. I was introduced to these little fritters, a tasty street food snack from Palermo in Sicily, by my friend Ivo Bisignano. Traditionally, they’re served hot, straight out of the oil, in a soft white bread roll with just a squeeze of lemon by way of accompaniment, but I like to snack on them just as they are before a meal; they’re also lovely dipped in decent mayonnaise or aïoli. To me, panelle are the epitome of indulgence, rather than abstinence, in the New Year’s Eve equation. Makes about 30 fritters, to serve four to five generously.
225g chickpea (aka gram) flour
½ tsp rosemary leaves, finely chopped
Flaked sea salt and black pepper
750ml water
500ml sunflower oil
1 lemon, halved
Sift the flour into a bowl, then stir in the chopped rosemary, a teaspoon and a half of salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.
Pour the water into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Take the pan off the heat, then add the flour in three or four stages, whisking continuously with each addition to stop too many lumps forming (though there’s no escaping the fact that some will). Return the pan to a low heat and cook the mix for five minutes, stirring frequently with a spatula, until it starts to come away from the sides of the pan, then turn off the heat.
Cut out two 35cm-wide x 80cm-long sheets of greaseproof paper, lay one out on a worktop, then spoon the panelle mixture on top and spread it out into a roughly 20cm x 30cm rectangle that’s about 1cm thick (again, use a spatula). Lay the second sheet of paper on top, then roll out with a rolling pin until the batter is 0.5cm thick and about twice its original surface area (don’t worry if it loses its shape a bit).
Set aside for half an hour to cool and set properly, then lift off the top layer of paper and cut the panelle batter into long, 4cm-wide strips. Cut each strip into 10cm-long pieces (so you end up with 4cm x 10cm rectangles). Don’t worry about trimming the edges: any frayed bits will go nice and crisp when fried.
Put the oil in a large saute pan on a high flame. Once the oil is good and hot (about 200C), carefully drop in four or five slices of panelle and fry for five to six minutes, turning them once halfway through, until golden brown and crisp. Lift out with a slotted spoon and transfer to a wire rack lined with kitchen paper, to drain. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and repeat with the remaining panelle mixture. Once all the panelle are fried, squeeze over some lemon juice and serve at once.
Chorizo, banana and prawn cakes with harissa yoghurt
These are what I’d sell if I ever jacked it all in and set up a street stall somewhere tropical. I’m probably not going to do that any time soon, but in the meantime, these will transport you there. Makes about 15 fritters, to serve four as a snack or first course.
3 cooking chorizo sausages, skin removed and discarded, meat finely chopped (150g net weight)
100g Greek-style yoghurt
1 tsp rose (or regular) harissa
2 ripe bananas (but not so ripe that they have brown bits), peeled and cut into 2cm pieces
80g sustainably caught ready-peeled raw king prawns, roughly chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
2cm piece ginger, peeled and finely grated (to end up with about ½ tsp)
2 limes – zest finely grated, to get 2 tsp, then cut into wedges
¼ tsp ground coriander
10g coriander leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp plain flour
Salt
2 large egg whites
3 tbsp vegetable oil
Put a large nonstick saute pan on a high flame. Once hot, fry the chorizo for four minutes, stirring regularly, until nice and crisp, then tip into a large bowl (including any oil that leeches out) and leave to cool a little.
In a small bowl, fold the harissa into the yoghurt – don’t mix them together so much that they turn into a uniform mass, but rather just swirl the harissa through the yoghurt, so it ends up with attractive red marbling. Cover with cling-film and refrigerate.
Add the bananas, prawns, chilli, garlic, ginger, lime zest, ground and fresh coriander, flour and a quarter-teaspoon of salt to the chorizo and stir to combine. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, then gently fold into the fritter mixture, taking care not to knock out too much air.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan on a high flame. Once the oil is hot, turn down the heat to medium and, in about three batches, carefully spoon the mixture into the pan, one tablespoon per fritter and spaced well apart. Fry for two minutes on each side, until crisp and golden brown, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining batter.
Serve warm with the harissa yoghurt and lime wedges alongside.
Courgette, lentil and turmeric fritters
To make these even easier, use ready-cooked puy lentils (if you do so, you’ll need 470g cooked lentils). These fritters are a great hearty snack just as they are, though I’m also quite partial to them for breakfast with a poached egg. Makes 12 fritters, to serve six.
200g puy lentils (or 470g, if starting with ready-cooked)
2 courgettes, roughly grated
1 small onion, peeled and roughly grated
¾ tsp ground turmeric
12 cardamom pods, seeds taken out and finely crushed (you should end up with ½ tsp; discard the empty husks)
1 lime – zest finely grated, to get 1 tsp, then cut into 6 wedges, to serve
1 large egg
70g plain flour
Salt
90ml sunflower oil, for frying
200g Greek-style yoghurt
Bring a medium saucepan of well-salted water to a boil, then add the lentils and boil for 25 minutes, until cooked and soft, but still retaining their shape. Drain, then set aside for 30 minutes to cool and dry.
Put the lentils in a large bowl, and add the courgette, onion, turmeric, cardamom, lime zest, egg, flour and half a teaspoon of salt (though only if you’re frying straight away; if you’re saving the mix for later, stir in the salt just before you start cooking). Mix to combine and set aside.
Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan on a medium flame. Once hot, drop in four 75g helpings of the batter mix (ie about four or so heaped tablespoons), pressing them down slightly until they’re about 8cm wide and 2cm thick. Fry for eight to nine minutes, turning carefully halfway with a fish slice, until golden brown and crisp on both sides, but still soft in the middle. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and keep warm while you cook the rest of the fritter mix (you may need to add more oil to the pan).
Serve hot with a good dollop of yoghurt and a wedge of lime.
